By Cinda Brent
Some things to know that not everyone will tell you . . .
. . . about buying Shipped Hatching Eggs
Here are some "everybody knows" type of information in regards to hatching egg auctions and/or shipped hatching eggs. I'm listing these things because everybody does NOT know, and anyone interested in buying/selling eggs this way SHOULD be more in the know. I hope this is helpful, whether you are interested in buying eggs from me or just happen across this in a search.
First, let me state that if you are interested in starting to raise chickens or any other bird, having hatching eggs verses day-old chicks or older birds shipped, is the least expensive and safest way to get the job done. By shipping hatching eggs you will no way endanger a chick that could hatch along the way, the eggs will have to be incubated first before a chick can hatch.
It is typically assumed that a seller has no responsibility for shipped eggs after it leaves their hands. It is also typically assumed that the you are buying the arrival of intact eggs, NOT the guarantee or implied guarantee of any hatch rate.
Some egg terms: FERTILE - An egg that could develop an embryo is fertile. This does NOT mean it is necessarily an egg that will hatch. Also, it is NOT a safe assumption that because it did not hatch, that it was not fertile.
VIABLE - An egg that is capable of surviving (hatching). Not all fertile eggs are necessarily viable. Some eggs may develop, but the chick may not pip, or the chick may pip but die before hatching. This is an incubation problem, typical of incorrect humidity.
CLEAR EGG - A clear egg is NOT necessarily an infertile egg. A clear egg is one in which no embryonic development is seen. This could be due to improper egg storage, rough handling in shipping, or incubator problems as far as regulation of heat, opening incubator too frequently or for too long a period of time, chilling an egg.
I have seen a lot of terms misused in ads and auction listings for hatching eggs, ie, "my fertility rate is high" yeah, but how about your hatch rate? It is not necessarily the same thing.
"Circumstances beyond my control" are words often used by an egg seller in reference to after the eggs leave their care. This covers: rough handling by the Post Office or other shipping courier when the package is in route; changes in temperature or the eggs being in direct sunlight, or very near a heater or air conditioner, or out in the cold; eggs being x-rayed. As far as after the eggs are received by a buyer, the seller does not necessarily know or should not be held responsible for "circumstances beyond control" that could have an adverse effect on a buyer's hatch, such as: not "resting" the eggs properly before setting; not properly disinfecting the incubator (or other equipment) between hatches; incubation equipment failure; power outages; kids or pets disturbing the incubator; incubator having been placed in too warm or too cool an area; incubator being opened too often or for too long a period of time; improper humidity levels; improper turning, etc.
What a seller CAN (and should) do to ensure the safest possible transport of eggs: Ship the freshest eggs available, package eggs securely in new, never re-used cartons and/or shipping material, mark packages of hatching eggs clearly and plainly, use a service such as Track & Confirm to know where a package is, COMMUNICATE with the buyer so they will know when to expect the eggs.
What the BUYER can do to be a helpful business partner: ask any questions about the type of birds or auction/sale terms before bidding; send payment right away along with any shipment instructions and make sure seller has correct shipping address; COMMUNICATE with the seller when the eggs are received, and most sellers are interested in the condition of the eggs on receipt. If you are unsatisfied, take photos to share with the seller and COMMUNICATE with the buyer about it. Try to resolve any potential problem before leaving auction feedback. Leave feedback when eggs are received, you should NOT wait until the hatch to "rate" the seller.
If you should come across hatching egg auctions or sale conditions that seem a little snitty or over-structured....this is most likely a very good and concerned seller who has been burned or who is otherwise especially cautious about his/her hatching egg practices. If you are in doubt, look at a seller's feedback. Communicate with the seller and ask questions to ease your concerns. Visit a website, if one is listed, and get to "know" the seller through his or her writings.
I will also say that I was caught off guard in avery odd way once, an unidentified email that was not signed with a first and last name and not sent from that person's account came through, demanding to know the condition of my premises. It did not sound like a typical "I'm interested in learning about the birds you have" or "I'd like to buy from you" type email, it seemed very much like a personal attack - from a complete stranger who seemed to have too detailed of information about me. The same person was appalled that I would look them up online by a simple search of the email address.
From this, I have learned when making inquiries to include my name, some indication of my whereabouts (city, state or the like) and specifically how I would prefer to be reached by an individual or company will help someone a) identify the customer and/or special considerations as to shipping; b) show in good faith that I am worth spending time answering and am not trying to "pull one over" on anybody and it is just plain decent business etiquette.
As for the freshness of eggs and hatchability; I have seen on sources on the internet that you must incubate an egg within 7 days of being laid; THIS IS NOT CORRECT. It is BEST to do this, and the viability or hatchability of the egg may drastically decrease after 7 days, especially if it is not stored under optimal conditions. At CBF Super Quail, however, we have successfully hatched eggs up to 4 weeks old! Yes, the hatch rate did decrease some, but not drastically. These were not shipped eggs but all eggs were treated in like manner and stored in the same place and in the same conditions.
As long as customs will allow it; eggs CAN be shipped to some International destinations, and buyers can get okay (not always "good" but "okay") hatch rates. Just like eggs shipped within the US, the shipping and handling of the eggs and package cannot be guaranteed, and some packages may arrive in better shape than others, but there is some hope if a reasonable number of fresh eggs are shipped that you may get a good hatch. I hope to be able to report on this soon!
ALSO: Do research as to a seller's claims if there is anything you question. People may copy wording, themes, or policies from other auction listings or other sellers and may have info that is not necessarily accurate. For example, I have heard mention of insuring hatching eggs USPS. Now, you may find a USPS that will sell you the insurance, but it is not in their policy, to the best of my knowledge, to refund anything in the event of a problem. Under no circumstances will they cover eggs for hatchability; but I just checked with 800-ASK-USPS and the official answer I received was that some POs may sell you insurance, but the USPS will only accept a claim on broken insured eggs if they are sent Registered and Insured, according to a telephone call but an email stated, "Insurance may be purchased for perishable items.
However, the claim will not be paid if the item is spoiled." My opinion, a big waste of money! Checking on UPS at 800-PICK-UPS, I learned that there is no insurance available there, you ship at your own risk. Fed-Ex claims that they do not offer insurance at all; but they do provide protection for a shipment based on its "declared value", their maximum liability in the event of damage or loss. That is all of the information that they would provide in an email inquiry. No courier will guarantee hatch rate or the like, only that the egg arrive intact.
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Parakeets - A Budgie For A Buddy
By Susan Rutter
Paraketts are one of the most affectionate, entertaining, intelligent and fun pets anyone could ask for.
If you want a pet that is low maintaince, high energy, loving, and that will provide hours, even years, of joy, a parakeet is for you.
Picking a pretty bird, setting up a nice cage and going about your life waiting to be "entertained" is not the way to get the most from your bird. Parakeets love interaction. Love to fly, be talked to, held and played with. The more time you spend talking to your bird, the more talkative they will be. Therefore, the more enjoyment and bonding you will receive. Be very hands on.
My family has had two parakeets. Sweetpea lived 7 years and Rugby 8 years. That is a great deal of time to get very attached and establish a real relationship. The key is to keep them "safe" from escaping to the great outdoors and keep their environment as "bird friendly" as possible.
With both birds we chose to let them fly free in their rooms. We did not clip their wings. It just doesn't seem right for a creature that is born to fly, to not have that option. But again, their environments must be safe.
Sweetpea talked, sang, blew his nose (did his imitation of a person blowing) chased paper airplanes in the air and on the floor, played with his toys and gave us so many hours of fun.
Our second bird was given the name Rugby, by my husband, because he had a big white stripe on his blue belly, just like a Rugby shirt. He had many many more tricks in his bag than we could have ever anticipated. His favorite game was to pick up coins in his beak, fly around the room and throw them at a target or place them in his cage or wherever he chose.
We were very lucky with both birds, but there are some things to consider before you make the commitment to buy a bird.
1. A parakeet can live 15 years or more. Are you prepared for the responsibility?
2. If by chance your bird remained timid and shy and didn't speak, how would you react?
3. Do you have enough time to devote to your parakeet? Time to whistle tunes, talk and
give a lot of attention to it?
4. Do you have other pets that might not get along with the bird?
5. If the bird is for a young child it will still be up to you to watch out for the bird.
6. It is best to have only one parakeet at a time in order for it to bond with you rather than another
bird.
If there is a parakeet in your future I wish you many, many years of enjoyment and fun.
Susan Rutter
http://www.read-by-ear.com
Susan Rutter http://read-by-ear.com
Paraketts are one of the most affectionate, entertaining, intelligent and fun pets anyone could ask for.
If you want a pet that is low maintaince, high energy, loving, and that will provide hours, even years, of joy, a parakeet is for you.
Picking a pretty bird, setting up a nice cage and going about your life waiting to be "entertained" is not the way to get the most from your bird. Parakeets love interaction. Love to fly, be talked to, held and played with. The more time you spend talking to your bird, the more talkative they will be. Therefore, the more enjoyment and bonding you will receive. Be very hands on.
My family has had two parakeets. Sweetpea lived 7 years and Rugby 8 years. That is a great deal of time to get very attached and establish a real relationship. The key is to keep them "safe" from escaping to the great outdoors and keep their environment as "bird friendly" as possible.
With both birds we chose to let them fly free in their rooms. We did not clip their wings. It just doesn't seem right for a creature that is born to fly, to not have that option. But again, their environments must be safe.
Sweetpea talked, sang, blew his nose (did his imitation of a person blowing) chased paper airplanes in the air and on the floor, played with his toys and gave us so many hours of fun.
Our second bird was given the name Rugby, by my husband, because he had a big white stripe on his blue belly, just like a Rugby shirt. He had many many more tricks in his bag than we could have ever anticipated. His favorite game was to pick up coins in his beak, fly around the room and throw them at a target or place them in his cage or wherever he chose.
We were very lucky with both birds, but there are some things to consider before you make the commitment to buy a bird.
1. A parakeet can live 15 years or more. Are you prepared for the responsibility?
2. If by chance your bird remained timid and shy and didn't speak, how would you react?
3. Do you have enough time to devote to your parakeet? Time to whistle tunes, talk and
give a lot of attention to it?
4. Do you have other pets that might not get along with the bird?
5. If the bird is for a young child it will still be up to you to watch out for the bird.
6. It is best to have only one parakeet at a time in order for it to bond with you rather than another
bird.
If there is a parakeet in your future I wish you many, many years of enjoyment and fun.
Susan Rutter
http://www.read-by-ear.com
Susan Rutter http://read-by-ear.com
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Flooding - A Bad Parrot Training Technique
By Dave Womach
When I first decided to become a parrot trainer I read up on all sorts of training techniques from supposedly good parrot trainers. These trainer�s birds were amazing. Their Green Wing Macaws were capable of jumping off the top of hotel roofs, without any restraints and would willingly fly down from the roof and land on their trainers hand.
It was an amazing thing to watch, so amazing that I decided to follow all instructions he gave me to the core. I obeyed everything he said, including a method that I later realized was FAR from the best way to train a parrot not to bite.
The method that this trainer taught me was what is known in the animal training industry as flooding. Flooding is where you put an animal in a situation and force it to comply with whatever means is necessary. In my case I was trying to get my Blue and Gold Macaws to willingly come out of their cages without biting me. And I was instructed to take two wooden dowels, one in each hand, and proceed to forcibly pet my Blue and Gold Macaws with the wooden dowels.
Obviously my Macaws did not like this situation as they didn�t like being touched. But I was instructed that they would soon realize that the touching was OK, and that I (the trainer) was the boss, and not the bird.
This technique was to be executed so as never to harm the bird, but scare it into submission. My blue and Golds would scream, flap their wings and bite at the sticks, and each time the did so I was to overwhelm them even more by touching them with the other stick in my other hand until they realized there was no hope and finally gave up.
Luckily for me this technique works on Macaws that like to attack their owners, but it�s woefully ineffective on other species of parrots, especially certain species that are prone to running away in fear vs. holding their ground and putting up a fight like my blue and gold Macaws were.
In hind sight there are much more gentle approaches to training that not only work faster than the flooding method I�ve just described, but work for helping parrots of all temperaments learn to not bite. It involves putting a parrot in situations where he has to choose to do or not do something, and is rewarded for the correct choice, and ignored with the wrong choice.
The end result is a parrot who realizes that you are trying to communicate with him in a nice way because you�ve never scared him or hurt him. Plus the parrot realizes that life with you is a puzzle� and it�s his job to figure out, because there�s always a nice treat in it for him if he can figure out the answer.
This type of training is extremely mentally stimulating and with just a few short practice sessions a week with a parrot can be the perfect preventative medicine for all sorts of behavior problems like feather plucking, screaming, and boredom.
To learn more about how I now teach positive reinforcement my Blue and Gold Macaws visit http://www.birdtricks.com/macaws.html and sign up for my free ezine jam packed with parrot training tips you can start using today.
When I first decided to become a parrot trainer I read up on all sorts of training techniques from supposedly good parrot trainers. These trainer�s birds were amazing. Their Green Wing Macaws were capable of jumping off the top of hotel roofs, without any restraints and would willingly fly down from the roof and land on their trainers hand.
It was an amazing thing to watch, so amazing that I decided to follow all instructions he gave me to the core. I obeyed everything he said, including a method that I later realized was FAR from the best way to train a parrot not to bite.
The method that this trainer taught me was what is known in the animal training industry as flooding. Flooding is where you put an animal in a situation and force it to comply with whatever means is necessary. In my case I was trying to get my Blue and Gold Macaws to willingly come out of their cages without biting me. And I was instructed to take two wooden dowels, one in each hand, and proceed to forcibly pet my Blue and Gold Macaws with the wooden dowels.
Obviously my Macaws did not like this situation as they didn�t like being touched. But I was instructed that they would soon realize that the touching was OK, and that I (the trainer) was the boss, and not the bird.
This technique was to be executed so as never to harm the bird, but scare it into submission. My blue and Golds would scream, flap their wings and bite at the sticks, and each time the did so I was to overwhelm them even more by touching them with the other stick in my other hand until they realized there was no hope and finally gave up.
Luckily for me this technique works on Macaws that like to attack their owners, but it�s woefully ineffective on other species of parrots, especially certain species that are prone to running away in fear vs. holding their ground and putting up a fight like my blue and gold Macaws were.
In hind sight there are much more gentle approaches to training that not only work faster than the flooding method I�ve just described, but work for helping parrots of all temperaments learn to not bite. It involves putting a parrot in situations where he has to choose to do or not do something, and is rewarded for the correct choice, and ignored with the wrong choice.
The end result is a parrot who realizes that you are trying to communicate with him in a nice way because you�ve never scared him or hurt him. Plus the parrot realizes that life with you is a puzzle� and it�s his job to figure out, because there�s always a nice treat in it for him if he can figure out the answer.
This type of training is extremely mentally stimulating and with just a few short practice sessions a week with a parrot can be the perfect preventative medicine for all sorts of behavior problems like feather plucking, screaming, and boredom.
To learn more about how I now teach positive reinforcement my Blue and Gold Macaws visit http://www.birdtricks.com/macaws.html and sign up for my free ezine jam packed with parrot training tips you can start using today.
Friday, May 25, 2007
Watching Birds Eases Isolation
By Mike Selvon
The opportunity to set up a backyard bird watching station is ideal for many elderly and shut-ins who enjoy watching birds. Locating a feeding station in a place where it is visible from a large window creates a natural theater for nature lovers to observe, take notes on, and participate in the lives of the birds who come to depend on them for food. There are many benefits to be derived from setting up a bird watching station for the elderly and shut-ins.
Watching birds in the backyard is an excelent way to pass the time. For a shut-in, time can begin to creep. When one is unable to be active, seconds can turn into minutes and minutes can turn into hours. Since their bodies will not allow them to be out, they struggle to keep their minds busy. An activity like bird watching helps the ticking of those minutes and seconds and gives shut-ins a chance to enjoy a full day.
Another feature of watching birds that can be useful to shut-ins is the fact that it can, if they so desire, involve research. This research can help them to keep their minds sharp as they read, memorize, and track which birds are coming to their feeder. They may take a great deal of joy in keeping a notebook and beginning to understand the traffic patterns and behaviors of certain birds. Watching birds through a bird watching picture window with a pair of binoculars is much more mentally stimulating than staring at the television set all day.
Since many birds return to the same places to winter each year, and conversely, to the same spring and summer locations to nest, shut-ins may take a great deal of delight as they learn to identify the same birds that return seasonally year after year. By keeping a notebook documenting physical descriptions and behaviors, they will be able to track each bird's comings and goings and look forward to that bird's yearly return.
A problem that can plague some shut-ins is an over-riding feeling of uselessness. Setting up a bird feeder and building a community of birds that comes to count on it for food can eliminate this feeling. If a shut-in knows that the birds are counting on them, then the shut-in may feel as though this project is suddenly bigger than just watching birds. It has suddenly become a responsibility. Typically, that is a good thing.
If you are serious about creating a backyard space that is devoted to bird watching, do not be afraid to look to your local clubs and societies for advice. You will find that most bird watching enthusiasts are eager and willing to share their information if it will be helpful to others.
Mike Selvon is the owner of various niche portal. Our bird feeder portal contains some useful information on bird watching. While you are there don't forget to claim your free gift.
The opportunity to set up a backyard bird watching station is ideal for many elderly and shut-ins who enjoy watching birds. Locating a feeding station in a place where it is visible from a large window creates a natural theater for nature lovers to observe, take notes on, and participate in the lives of the birds who come to depend on them for food. There are many benefits to be derived from setting up a bird watching station for the elderly and shut-ins.
Watching birds in the backyard is an excelent way to pass the time. For a shut-in, time can begin to creep. When one is unable to be active, seconds can turn into minutes and minutes can turn into hours. Since their bodies will not allow them to be out, they struggle to keep their minds busy. An activity like bird watching helps the ticking of those minutes and seconds and gives shut-ins a chance to enjoy a full day.
Another feature of watching birds that can be useful to shut-ins is the fact that it can, if they so desire, involve research. This research can help them to keep their minds sharp as they read, memorize, and track which birds are coming to their feeder. They may take a great deal of joy in keeping a notebook and beginning to understand the traffic patterns and behaviors of certain birds. Watching birds through a bird watching picture window with a pair of binoculars is much more mentally stimulating than staring at the television set all day.
Since many birds return to the same places to winter each year, and conversely, to the same spring and summer locations to nest, shut-ins may take a great deal of delight as they learn to identify the same birds that return seasonally year after year. By keeping a notebook documenting physical descriptions and behaviors, they will be able to track each bird's comings and goings and look forward to that bird's yearly return.
A problem that can plague some shut-ins is an over-riding feeling of uselessness. Setting up a bird feeder and building a community of birds that comes to count on it for food can eliminate this feeling. If a shut-in knows that the birds are counting on them, then the shut-in may feel as though this project is suddenly bigger than just watching birds. It has suddenly become a responsibility. Typically, that is a good thing.
If you are serious about creating a backyard space that is devoted to bird watching, do not be afraid to look to your local clubs and societies for advice. You will find that most bird watching enthusiasts are eager and willing to share their information if it will be helpful to others.
Mike Selvon is the owner of various niche portal. Our bird feeder portal contains some useful information on bird watching. While you are there don't forget to claim your free gift.
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
How to Use Platform Bird Feeders
By Mayoor Patel
Amongst the many types of bird feeders that you can choose the most common, and easiest to make, are the platform bird feeders. This type of feeder has a flat tray like base with short sides that are only tall enough to keep the bird food from falling out. It should also have a roof to it to keep the food dry in case of rain or snow. It also needs to have some holes for drainage in case it does get wet. You do not want puddles to appear in the seed you are feeding to the birds. One way to avoid this is to use a wire screen bottom instead of having to put holes in a wooden or metal base. This takes care of any water problem.
If you are trying to attract a lot of birds then the placement of these feeders is very important. You will have more luck if they are not out in the open with no cover. The kinds of birds that will be attracted to platform bird feeders will be happier if the feeders are in a more secluded spot. Putting them in amongst the bushes, trees and shrubs will be much smarter. Evergreens are a good choice to offer this security as they are also great for protection from windy weather. But, despite the need to put the bird feeders in an area with lots of trees for protection, they cannot be too close or the birds could become easy prey for cats. As well, the bird food might become a treat for animals like squirrels that can jump from the trees to the feeders. Therefore, you should try to put them in a treed area but at least ten to twelve feet away from the trees themselves. Remember, this type of bird feeder is more likely to attract other creatures since there are no sides to protect the seeds or other foods against squirrels, chipmunks or other rodents.
Having a platform bird feeder can prove to be a very rewarding experience as you watch your feathered visitors take a break when they stop in for a meal. They attract more variety of birds than the other types of feeders so depending on where you live you may see jays, doves, blackbirds, finches, sparrows to name only a few.
Mayoor Patel is the writer for the website http://www.bird-feeders.wares-are.us/. Please visit for information on all things concerned with Platform Bird Feeders
Amongst the many types of bird feeders that you can choose the most common, and easiest to make, are the platform bird feeders. This type of feeder has a flat tray like base with short sides that are only tall enough to keep the bird food from falling out. It should also have a roof to it to keep the food dry in case of rain or snow. It also needs to have some holes for drainage in case it does get wet. You do not want puddles to appear in the seed you are feeding to the birds. One way to avoid this is to use a wire screen bottom instead of having to put holes in a wooden or metal base. This takes care of any water problem.
If you are trying to attract a lot of birds then the placement of these feeders is very important. You will have more luck if they are not out in the open with no cover. The kinds of birds that will be attracted to platform bird feeders will be happier if the feeders are in a more secluded spot. Putting them in amongst the bushes, trees and shrubs will be much smarter. Evergreens are a good choice to offer this security as they are also great for protection from windy weather. But, despite the need to put the bird feeders in an area with lots of trees for protection, they cannot be too close or the birds could become easy prey for cats. As well, the bird food might become a treat for animals like squirrels that can jump from the trees to the feeders. Therefore, you should try to put them in a treed area but at least ten to twelve feet away from the trees themselves. Remember, this type of bird feeder is more likely to attract other creatures since there are no sides to protect the seeds or other foods against squirrels, chipmunks or other rodents.
Having a platform bird feeder can prove to be a very rewarding experience as you watch your feathered visitors take a break when they stop in for a meal. They attract more variety of birds than the other types of feeders so depending on where you live you may see jays, doves, blackbirds, finches, sparrows to name only a few.
Mayoor Patel is the writer for the website http://www.bird-feeders.wares-are.us/. Please visit for information on all things concerned with Platform Bird Feeders
Monday, May 21, 2007
Bird Screaming Problem
By Tracie Irvine
How can I stop my bird from screaming so much?
Many people write me and ask if I can help them with their bird screaming problems. Some birds seem to constantly scream or when they do scream, they do it for minutes at a time. To us there doesn't seem to be a reason, but there really is a reason or the bird would not be screaming.
There are just too many reasons for bird screaming problems to cover everything here. I thought it best to highlight some of the things I have learned and then just present some ideas that might help stop some bird screaming behaviors.
If you are reading this article in hopes of finding a solution to stop all bird screaming, you will not find it here or anywhere. Most birds scream sometime, they are meant to scream and will always find a time to scream if they are healthy.
When is bird screaming normal?
The most common bird screaming time is early morning when the sun starts to rise and in the evening as the sun starts to set. It seems to just be built into birds to greet the sun and then tell it good night.
In reality, we are their flock and they want to make sure all the flock is in there with them when they wake up and then announce that it�s getting time to eat the evening meal and again that it is time find a roost for the night.
Instead of getting upset with your bird�s natural instinct, plan on it and even encourage it. Maybe even join them and become a part of the flock. (It can really be quite fun!) You won�t notice how loud they are when you join in too.
What about the other bird screaming times?
For all the other bird screaming times, you will have to put on your investigator hat and get out your pad and pen. Start paying close attention to exactly what happens before, during and after your bird vocalizes.
If you are really trying to solve a bird screaming issue that is threatening the relationship with your bird, you might even want to spend an entire day at home for this very purpose.
You will need to go about your normal routine and not give the bird any unusual attention to get to the root of the problem. You may have to do this several different days in some cases.
The bird screaming log
Have a log ready for writing on. In the margin of the log put the time of day, and draw three lines down the middle of the page. At the top of each column write, �Before", �During", and �After" so that you can keep up with the bird screaming events.
Then when the bird starts screaming, note what was going on just before the bird screaming began. For instance, �I�m on computer, husband in kitchen and kids outside in yard in view of parrot."
During the screaming, do and/or say what you normally do during the bird screaming events in your house. Write down exactly what everyone does or continues to do during each screaming session. When the bird screaming session ends, write down what everyone was doing and or saying when the bird quit screaming. Don�t leave anything out, every detail is important.
Continue to do this every single time there is a screaming session for the whole day, if you choose to try doing this in a whole day, or for several days when you are around the bird.
What to do with your bird screaming journal
Now that you have all these notes on your bird screaming sessions, what are you to do with them? You will be amazed sometimes at the patterns you will find. Because no two households are alike, I will not be able to help you specifically with your bird here, but I can help you look at your situation.
Read down the first column and note any consistencies. Such as, finding that many of the times that the bird started screaming someone was in the kitchen, or someone was dialing the phone. Do the same with the other columns. Then think about what you or others might do differently to help stop the bird from screaming in the first place.
How I stopped our bird screaming sessions
I have a couple of Green Cheeked Conures that used to give us grief several times a day with bird screaming sessions. One day we finally decided it was driving us crazy enough that we would take the time to figure out what was causing it.
At first we would just be careful not to reward the screaming behavior. When they would start the screaming session, we would pretend we didn�t see or hear them. This does work in a few cases, but usually you need to figure out what your bird really wants and avoid the issue instead of ignoring the issue.
After taking note of what we were doing, where everyone was located in the house, and where the birds were in reference to our locations, we quickly discovered the problem from our birds� point of view. Most of the times that our birds had screaming sessions, there was someone was in the kitchen, or someone had disappeared from site. Most of the time, one of us was in the kitchen when the bird screaming began.
We solved 80% of our bird screaming problem by taking the birds to the dining room stand, next to the kitchen, when one of us were going to be in the kitchen for more than a few minutes. When we did this, they did not scream. When we forgot, they would scream the entire time.
Our birds thought part of the flock was feeding on something and they were being left out. By taking them to the play stand in the dining room and giving them some healthy treats, they felt like they were foraging right along with the other flock member.
When we forgot and the bird screaming problem came about, we would get whoever was in the kitchen to leave the kitchen without acknowledging the birds and not go back until the birds quit screaming. Then we would move them to the play stand and the person could return to the kitchen.
We did this in that order so that the birds did not get rewarded for their bird screaming session. We don�t want them to think that they can start screaming and get us to come and get them. By waiting until they were quiet to come and get them, they did not get any rewards.
How to use your bird screaming journal to help you
Once you find some patterns, and there may be a lot more than one issue that bothers your bird, you will want to come up with solutions to head off the bird screaming situations.
Think of ways to prevent the situation that makes the bird screaming begin. For example, move the cage to where everyone is, spend time with the bird a few minutes every hour, provide foraging activities, have short bird training sessions to help the bird get some rewards for pleasing you. Clicker training is a great help sometimes.
Reinforce all good behaviors. Lavish attention on the bird when it is quiet, playing with toys, eating its healthy treats, and doing behaviors you want to continue.
Consider some bird training techniques. Clicker training has helped many people stop bird screaming behavior. Even teaching the bird to step up or wave can help. Spending time with your bird every day, doing bird training, and then following that up with some healthy treats in their bowl, will often satisfy the bird for quite a while.
There is so much more I could write on this subject, but this article would become a bird screaming book instead of a bird screaming article if I did.
Here is a short list of some things that I have found to cause bird screaming problems:
� Hormonal times
� Allergies to peanuts
� Allergies to artificial vitamins
� Allergies to chemicals and food coloring in food
� Other food allergies
� Lack of attention
� Being left out of �flock" activities
� Needing to go to bed
� Wanting more food or water
� Wanting a bath when hearing water run or rain outside
� Boredom, needing new toys, training, or foraging activities
� Loneliness
� Perceived danger for themselves or the �flock"
� Wanting peace and quiet
� Dislike of someone that has offended them
� Jealousy
� �Flock" member leaving the room or house
� �Flock" member returning and not joining them
� �Flock" eating without them or not sharing their food
� Change of diet, wishing for what they are used to eating
And the list goes on and on!
Some ideas for avoiding bird screaming
Clicker Training for Birds can help bird screaming problems fade away and be replaced with positive behaviors you want to encourage.
Getting a full spectrum light for your birds can make a real difference in your birds� attitude and health. I explain the importance of full spectrum lighting on the Parrot and Conure World site.
Purchase pellets and mixes that are free of peanuts, artificial vitamins and additives. Many birds have stopped irritating bird screaming behaviors just by removing one or more of these items from their diet.
About the Author: Tracie has an informational parrot website and Discount Parrot Supply Store that carries the items mentioned above and many other items to enrich your birds� life. She has quality cages at a discount, toys, play stands and play gyms, the Get A Grip nets, safety perches, a non-toxic cleanser that is safe for the whole house, and many more items.
Tracie encourages parrot owners to send pictures and write stories about what it is like to live with their parrot species for others to read, so they can make an educated decision about what bird is best for them. Her Parrot Comparison Chart is an excellent resource for those looking to add a new bird to their family.
How can I stop my bird from screaming so much?
Many people write me and ask if I can help them with their bird screaming problems. Some birds seem to constantly scream or when they do scream, they do it for minutes at a time. To us there doesn't seem to be a reason, but there really is a reason or the bird would not be screaming.
There are just too many reasons for bird screaming problems to cover everything here. I thought it best to highlight some of the things I have learned and then just present some ideas that might help stop some bird screaming behaviors.
If you are reading this article in hopes of finding a solution to stop all bird screaming, you will not find it here or anywhere. Most birds scream sometime, they are meant to scream and will always find a time to scream if they are healthy.
When is bird screaming normal?
The most common bird screaming time is early morning when the sun starts to rise and in the evening as the sun starts to set. It seems to just be built into birds to greet the sun and then tell it good night.
In reality, we are their flock and they want to make sure all the flock is in there with them when they wake up and then announce that it�s getting time to eat the evening meal and again that it is time find a roost for the night.
Instead of getting upset with your bird�s natural instinct, plan on it and even encourage it. Maybe even join them and become a part of the flock. (It can really be quite fun!) You won�t notice how loud they are when you join in too.
What about the other bird screaming times?
For all the other bird screaming times, you will have to put on your investigator hat and get out your pad and pen. Start paying close attention to exactly what happens before, during and after your bird vocalizes.
If you are really trying to solve a bird screaming issue that is threatening the relationship with your bird, you might even want to spend an entire day at home for this very purpose.
You will need to go about your normal routine and not give the bird any unusual attention to get to the root of the problem. You may have to do this several different days in some cases.
The bird screaming log
Have a log ready for writing on. In the margin of the log put the time of day, and draw three lines down the middle of the page. At the top of each column write, �Before", �During", and �After" so that you can keep up with the bird screaming events.
Then when the bird starts screaming, note what was going on just before the bird screaming began. For instance, �I�m on computer, husband in kitchen and kids outside in yard in view of parrot."
During the screaming, do and/or say what you normally do during the bird screaming events in your house. Write down exactly what everyone does or continues to do during each screaming session. When the bird screaming session ends, write down what everyone was doing and or saying when the bird quit screaming. Don�t leave anything out, every detail is important.
Continue to do this every single time there is a screaming session for the whole day, if you choose to try doing this in a whole day, or for several days when you are around the bird.
What to do with your bird screaming journal
Now that you have all these notes on your bird screaming sessions, what are you to do with them? You will be amazed sometimes at the patterns you will find. Because no two households are alike, I will not be able to help you specifically with your bird here, but I can help you look at your situation.
Read down the first column and note any consistencies. Such as, finding that many of the times that the bird started screaming someone was in the kitchen, or someone was dialing the phone. Do the same with the other columns. Then think about what you or others might do differently to help stop the bird from screaming in the first place.
How I stopped our bird screaming sessions
I have a couple of Green Cheeked Conures that used to give us grief several times a day with bird screaming sessions. One day we finally decided it was driving us crazy enough that we would take the time to figure out what was causing it.
At first we would just be careful not to reward the screaming behavior. When they would start the screaming session, we would pretend we didn�t see or hear them. This does work in a few cases, but usually you need to figure out what your bird really wants and avoid the issue instead of ignoring the issue.
After taking note of what we were doing, where everyone was located in the house, and where the birds were in reference to our locations, we quickly discovered the problem from our birds� point of view. Most of the times that our birds had screaming sessions, there was someone was in the kitchen, or someone had disappeared from site. Most of the time, one of us was in the kitchen when the bird screaming began.
We solved 80% of our bird screaming problem by taking the birds to the dining room stand, next to the kitchen, when one of us were going to be in the kitchen for more than a few minutes. When we did this, they did not scream. When we forgot, they would scream the entire time.
Our birds thought part of the flock was feeding on something and they were being left out. By taking them to the play stand in the dining room and giving them some healthy treats, they felt like they were foraging right along with the other flock member.
When we forgot and the bird screaming problem came about, we would get whoever was in the kitchen to leave the kitchen without acknowledging the birds and not go back until the birds quit screaming. Then we would move them to the play stand and the person could return to the kitchen.
We did this in that order so that the birds did not get rewarded for their bird screaming session. We don�t want them to think that they can start screaming and get us to come and get them. By waiting until they were quiet to come and get them, they did not get any rewards.
How to use your bird screaming journal to help you
Once you find some patterns, and there may be a lot more than one issue that bothers your bird, you will want to come up with solutions to head off the bird screaming situations.
Think of ways to prevent the situation that makes the bird screaming begin. For example, move the cage to where everyone is, spend time with the bird a few minutes every hour, provide foraging activities, have short bird training sessions to help the bird get some rewards for pleasing you. Clicker training is a great help sometimes.
Reinforce all good behaviors. Lavish attention on the bird when it is quiet, playing with toys, eating its healthy treats, and doing behaviors you want to continue.
Consider some bird training techniques. Clicker training has helped many people stop bird screaming behavior. Even teaching the bird to step up or wave can help. Spending time with your bird every day, doing bird training, and then following that up with some healthy treats in their bowl, will often satisfy the bird for quite a while.
There is so much more I could write on this subject, but this article would become a bird screaming book instead of a bird screaming article if I did.
Here is a short list of some things that I have found to cause bird screaming problems:
� Hormonal times
� Allergies to peanuts
� Allergies to artificial vitamins
� Allergies to chemicals and food coloring in food
� Other food allergies
� Lack of attention
� Being left out of �flock" activities
� Needing to go to bed
� Wanting more food or water
� Wanting a bath when hearing water run or rain outside
� Boredom, needing new toys, training, or foraging activities
� Loneliness
� Perceived danger for themselves or the �flock"
� Wanting peace and quiet
� Dislike of someone that has offended them
� Jealousy
� �Flock" member leaving the room or house
� �Flock" member returning and not joining them
� �Flock" eating without them or not sharing their food
� Change of diet, wishing for what they are used to eating
And the list goes on and on!
Some ideas for avoiding bird screaming
Clicker Training for Birds can help bird screaming problems fade away and be replaced with positive behaviors you want to encourage.
Getting a full spectrum light for your birds can make a real difference in your birds� attitude and health. I explain the importance of full spectrum lighting on the Parrot and Conure World site.
Purchase pellets and mixes that are free of peanuts, artificial vitamins and additives. Many birds have stopped irritating bird screaming behaviors just by removing one or more of these items from their diet.
About the Author: Tracie has an informational parrot website and Discount Parrot Supply Store that carries the items mentioned above and many other items to enrich your birds� life. She has quality cages at a discount, toys, play stands and play gyms, the Get A Grip nets, safety perches, a non-toxic cleanser that is safe for the whole house, and many more items.
Tracie encourages parrot owners to send pictures and write stories about what it is like to live with their parrot species for others to read, so they can make an educated decision about what bird is best for them. Her Parrot Comparison Chart is an excellent resource for those looking to add a new bird to their family.
Saturday, May 19, 2007
African Grey Parrot - The Roget's Thesaurus On Wings?
By Gabriel J. Adams
The African Grey parrot has been deemed the best speaker of all the parrots. In fact, the Guinness Book of World records has listed an African Grey parrot named, Prudle as the most talkative parrot world wide. Prudle and other African Grey parrots like her have helped bring light to the amazing abilities and qualities these birds possess. Though it is common knowledge that parrots speak, the African Grey parrot delivers a vocabulary unlike any other parrot and they are not limited to mimicking human speech either. In fact, you may be familiar with one very famous African Grey parrot named Alex. He has been the subject of scientific studies and many television programs and documentaries. As of current testing, it has been determined that Alex has the same mental capacities of a two-year-old child. It is no wonder so many bird fanciers are racing to own African Grey parrots.
It is because of their incredible abilities, intelligence, and personalities that those considering owning an African Grey parrot should be prepared to devote as much time and attention to their new pet as they would a young child. The African Grey parrot requires plenty of stimulation and interaction and will easily bond with its new owner. Many people prefer to buy their African Greys through a breeder. This ensures that the bird is acclimated to human touch and will be more dependent upon their owners. This is especially true if you purchase your African Grey parrot at a young age and hand feed it. It is also important to realize that it is illegal to capture African Grey parrots in the wild and sell them.
If you are going to purchase an African Grey, you should ensure that you would be able to devote plenty of time to him or her and make sure that your pet will not spend its day without adequate stimulation. Since the African Grey parrot has a lifespan of fifty years and more, it is imperative that you realize your new parrot purchase is a lifelong commitment. However, many people who own African Greys readily admit that their pet is a beloved member of their family, and the bond between these amazing birds and their owners is one full of love, happiness, and enjoyment.
Learn all about the african grey parrot at http://african-grey-parrotonline.com/
The African Grey parrot has been deemed the best speaker of all the parrots. In fact, the Guinness Book of World records has listed an African Grey parrot named, Prudle as the most talkative parrot world wide. Prudle and other African Grey parrots like her have helped bring light to the amazing abilities and qualities these birds possess. Though it is common knowledge that parrots speak, the African Grey parrot delivers a vocabulary unlike any other parrot and they are not limited to mimicking human speech either. In fact, you may be familiar with one very famous African Grey parrot named Alex. He has been the subject of scientific studies and many television programs and documentaries. As of current testing, it has been determined that Alex has the same mental capacities of a two-year-old child. It is no wonder so many bird fanciers are racing to own African Grey parrots.
It is because of their incredible abilities, intelligence, and personalities that those considering owning an African Grey parrot should be prepared to devote as much time and attention to their new pet as they would a young child. The African Grey parrot requires plenty of stimulation and interaction and will easily bond with its new owner. Many people prefer to buy their African Greys through a breeder. This ensures that the bird is acclimated to human touch and will be more dependent upon their owners. This is especially true if you purchase your African Grey parrot at a young age and hand feed it. It is also important to realize that it is illegal to capture African Grey parrots in the wild and sell them.
If you are going to purchase an African Grey, you should ensure that you would be able to devote plenty of time to him or her and make sure that your pet will not spend its day without adequate stimulation. Since the African Grey parrot has a lifespan of fifty years and more, it is imperative that you realize your new parrot purchase is a lifelong commitment. However, many people who own African Greys readily admit that their pet is a beloved member of their family, and the bond between these amazing birds and their owners is one full of love, happiness, and enjoyment.
Learn all about the african grey parrot at http://african-grey-parrotonline.com/
Thursday, May 17, 2007
Scaly Face in Budgies
By Chris Suckow
Scaly face is a common condition in birds caused by a mite called Knemidocoptes. This scaly face condition is seen mostly in budgerigars and by knowing what symptoms to look for you will be able to provide treatment to your bird as soon as possible. If the mites are not identified early the damage could be severe.
Knemidocoptes is a burrowing mite that can cause disfiguring changes of the beak, legs and feet of birds. The mite has a three-week life cycle and stays on the bird the whole time. The mites burrow into the skin and feather follicles around the cere, feet, and face, and feed on keratin. As the mites burrow they leave characteristic honeycomb lesions. The mites are transmitted from bird to bird by close contact.
Although this mite most commonly affects budgerigars, many different species of birds are affected. This mite can affect all chickens, turkeys, finches, canaries, parakeets, and parrots. Although the clinical signs of this mite can vary between species of birds, the basic lesions are the same.
Knemidocoptes occurs mostly in older or sick animals that have a weaker immune system. Lesions to look for include scaling, crusting, and grayish lesions on the skin around the beak, eyes, legs, and feet. The mites burrow into the skin leaving large tunnels resulting in the characteristic honeycomb lesion.
In severe cases the beak will start to grow malformed and it might become hard for the bird to breath. Also, the legs and feet will also become malformed and the bird will become lame. Swollen nail beds and misshaped nails can also occur.
Both male and female budgerigars may be affected, but the disease is most commonly seen in fledglings and younger adults. The lesions usually appear over the course of months and the progression of the disease is slow.
Normally the first lesions to appear are at the corners of the beak. In most cases the condition is confined to the base and top of the beak. Normally the condition does not cause itching in the birds. The fact that the condition does not cause itching is why the honeycomb lesions, and the location of the lesions will help your veterinarian determine that this condition is scaly face.
Your veterinarian will usually do a skin scraping of your bird to help confirm the diagnosis. Treatment usually consists of either one of two drugs, Ivermectin or Moxidectin. Either of these drugs can be given to treat the mites, these drugs can be given in varying forms and doses, so consult your veterinarian before treatment.
By knowing what signs to look for in your budgerigars, you'll be able to catch this condition in its early stages to hopefully prevent further disease.
Visit my pet website at and ASK A VET your bird question!
Scaly face is a common condition in birds caused by a mite called Knemidocoptes. This scaly face condition is seen mostly in budgerigars and by knowing what symptoms to look for you will be able to provide treatment to your bird as soon as possible. If the mites are not identified early the damage could be severe.
Knemidocoptes is a burrowing mite that can cause disfiguring changes of the beak, legs and feet of birds. The mite has a three-week life cycle and stays on the bird the whole time. The mites burrow into the skin and feather follicles around the cere, feet, and face, and feed on keratin. As the mites burrow they leave characteristic honeycomb lesions. The mites are transmitted from bird to bird by close contact.
Although this mite most commonly affects budgerigars, many different species of birds are affected. This mite can affect all chickens, turkeys, finches, canaries, parakeets, and parrots. Although the clinical signs of this mite can vary between species of birds, the basic lesions are the same.
Knemidocoptes occurs mostly in older or sick animals that have a weaker immune system. Lesions to look for include scaling, crusting, and grayish lesions on the skin around the beak, eyes, legs, and feet. The mites burrow into the skin leaving large tunnels resulting in the characteristic honeycomb lesion.
In severe cases the beak will start to grow malformed and it might become hard for the bird to breath. Also, the legs and feet will also become malformed and the bird will become lame. Swollen nail beds and misshaped nails can also occur.
Both male and female budgerigars may be affected, but the disease is most commonly seen in fledglings and younger adults. The lesions usually appear over the course of months and the progression of the disease is slow.
Normally the first lesions to appear are at the corners of the beak. In most cases the condition is confined to the base and top of the beak. Normally the condition does not cause itching in the birds. The fact that the condition does not cause itching is why the honeycomb lesions, and the location of the lesions will help your veterinarian determine that this condition is scaly face.
Your veterinarian will usually do a skin scraping of your bird to help confirm the diagnosis. Treatment usually consists of either one of two drugs, Ivermectin or Moxidectin. Either of these drugs can be given to treat the mites, these drugs can be given in varying forms and doses, so consult your veterinarian before treatment.
By knowing what signs to look for in your budgerigars, you'll be able to catch this condition in its early stages to hopefully prevent further disease.
Visit my pet website at and ASK A VET your bird question!
A Sun Conure Parrot Named Sunny
By Anna Hart
A Sun Conure parrot named Sunny. Who could resist such a cute parrot? There he sits on the end of a branch; his head turned nearly 180 degrees toward his back; his dark shiny eye peering at you with a knowing look.
A bright Sun Conure parrot named Sunny. If you have ever seen a Sun Conure parrot, you know exactly what I mean. If you have not, let me describe one.
Description of a Sun Conure Parrot
Sunny, the Sun Conure parrot, is a stunning bird, dressed in a shimmering, hooded shirt of gold with a sun-kissed, orange face. His wings and tail are shades of green and blue, mixed with a hint of gold. The Sun Conure parrot is only 12" long, including a long tail. Its beak and feet both are black. The eyes are dark brown in a white circle.
Personality of a Sun Conure Parrot
A Sun Conure parrot is a playful, inquisitive bird. Owners can't seem to find enough words to describe these little bundles of sunshine, but they try. A few of their favorites are:
* Active
* Comical
* Cuddly
* Curious
* Cute
* Energetic
* Entertaining
* Feisty
* Fun
* Loving
* Spunky
Playtime for a Sun Conure Parrot
A Sun Conure parrot's playtime is comical, to say the least. It loves its owners, and it loves to entertain them. Given a multitude of toys and a swing or two, the Sun Conure parrot will swing, jump, climb, and call out to you as he shows everything he can do. Even without toys, the Sun Conure parrot will develop its own tricks, just to play. It has a very high energy level, and sometimes appears to be a bundle of golden perpetual motion.
Appropriate Toys for a Sun Conure Parrot
Sun Conure parrots enjoy chewing aggressively, and will need several wooden toys to destroy. They will destroy them, too, reducing a medium-sized wooden toy to bits and pieces in a few hours. They are not as eager to play with puzzle toys, probably because they have so much energy to harness. Provide toys that call for activity and "letting off steam" and they will be happy.
Sun Conure parrots enjoy chains, ropes, and other things from which to swing. They love loud bells, but be sure you do, since a Sun Conure parrot will ring it incessantly at times. Rotate the toys every couple of weeks so that your bird will not become bored.
Appropriate Cage for a Sun Conure Parrot
Sun Conure parrots need room to fly around and use up their surplus energy. A website that recommends bird cages according to the size of the parrot, such as Bird Cages, will help you get a large enough cage. Generally, a 20" x 20" cage, about 3 feet high is good for a Sun Conure parrot. The bar spacing should be between 0.75 inches and 1" so that your parrot cannot get its head stuck between the bars. To give your bird proper exercise for its feet, install 3 different perches in the cage, each made of a different substance.
The Sun Conure Parrot's Talking Ability
Generally speaking, most parrots can be taught to talk if the owner follows a proven, consistent course of training. The Sun Conure parrot is not the best talker, however. With patience, you will be able to teach your bird a few words. With care, you will also be able to teach it not to screech for attention. It is common for Sun Conure parrots to screech to greet the day, and to end the day. In between, your bird should learn to be less vocal. Some have found that their Sun Conure parrots like to imitate beeping tones.
Food for a Sun Conure Parrot
The Sun Conure parrot does well on a basic diet of organic pellets. Organic pellets give your Sun Conure parrot a balanced diet in every bite. Avoid seed-based foods, as the parrot will pick out the seeds and leave the rest. The result will be a malnourished parrot.
In addition to organic pellets, give your parrot the variety it craves by providing fresh fruits and vegetables. Sun Conure parrots usually enjoy apples, grapes, melons, and oranges. Among vegetables, they will eat things such as broccoli, carrots, corn, lettuce, and peas. Keep seeds and nuts as a special treat.
�2007, Anna Hart. Anna Hart, a career educator and writer, spent 3 years in New Zealand, near the home of the Eclectus parrots. She has researched Eclectus parrot prices carefully for you. Anna invites you to read more of her articles about parrots of the world at http://www.parrots-of-the-world.com. If you would like information on preparing for a baby Sun Conure parrot, you won�t want to miss Anna�s insights on the subject.
A Sun Conure parrot named Sunny. Who could resist such a cute parrot? There he sits on the end of a branch; his head turned nearly 180 degrees toward his back; his dark shiny eye peering at you with a knowing look.
A bright Sun Conure parrot named Sunny. If you have ever seen a Sun Conure parrot, you know exactly what I mean. If you have not, let me describe one.
Description of a Sun Conure Parrot
Sunny, the Sun Conure parrot, is a stunning bird, dressed in a shimmering, hooded shirt of gold with a sun-kissed, orange face. His wings and tail are shades of green and blue, mixed with a hint of gold. The Sun Conure parrot is only 12" long, including a long tail. Its beak and feet both are black. The eyes are dark brown in a white circle.
Personality of a Sun Conure Parrot
A Sun Conure parrot is a playful, inquisitive bird. Owners can't seem to find enough words to describe these little bundles of sunshine, but they try. A few of their favorites are:
* Active
* Comical
* Cuddly
* Curious
* Cute
* Energetic
* Entertaining
* Feisty
* Fun
* Loving
* Spunky
Playtime for a Sun Conure Parrot
A Sun Conure parrot's playtime is comical, to say the least. It loves its owners, and it loves to entertain them. Given a multitude of toys and a swing or two, the Sun Conure parrot will swing, jump, climb, and call out to you as he shows everything he can do. Even without toys, the Sun Conure parrot will develop its own tricks, just to play. It has a very high energy level, and sometimes appears to be a bundle of golden perpetual motion.
Appropriate Toys for a Sun Conure Parrot
Sun Conure parrots enjoy chewing aggressively, and will need several wooden toys to destroy. They will destroy them, too, reducing a medium-sized wooden toy to bits and pieces in a few hours. They are not as eager to play with puzzle toys, probably because they have so much energy to harness. Provide toys that call for activity and "letting off steam" and they will be happy.
Sun Conure parrots enjoy chains, ropes, and other things from which to swing. They love loud bells, but be sure you do, since a Sun Conure parrot will ring it incessantly at times. Rotate the toys every couple of weeks so that your bird will not become bored.
Appropriate Cage for a Sun Conure Parrot
Sun Conure parrots need room to fly around and use up their surplus energy. A website that recommends bird cages according to the size of the parrot, such as Bird Cages, will help you get a large enough cage. Generally, a 20" x 20" cage, about 3 feet high is good for a Sun Conure parrot. The bar spacing should be between 0.75 inches and 1" so that your parrot cannot get its head stuck between the bars. To give your bird proper exercise for its feet, install 3 different perches in the cage, each made of a different substance.
The Sun Conure Parrot's Talking Ability
Generally speaking, most parrots can be taught to talk if the owner follows a proven, consistent course of training. The Sun Conure parrot is not the best talker, however. With patience, you will be able to teach your bird a few words. With care, you will also be able to teach it not to screech for attention. It is common for Sun Conure parrots to screech to greet the day, and to end the day. In between, your bird should learn to be less vocal. Some have found that their Sun Conure parrots like to imitate beeping tones.
Food for a Sun Conure Parrot
The Sun Conure parrot does well on a basic diet of organic pellets. Organic pellets give your Sun Conure parrot a balanced diet in every bite. Avoid seed-based foods, as the parrot will pick out the seeds and leave the rest. The result will be a malnourished parrot.
In addition to organic pellets, give your parrot the variety it craves by providing fresh fruits and vegetables. Sun Conure parrots usually enjoy apples, grapes, melons, and oranges. Among vegetables, they will eat things such as broccoli, carrots, corn, lettuce, and peas. Keep seeds and nuts as a special treat.
�2007, Anna Hart. Anna Hart, a career educator and writer, spent 3 years in New Zealand, near the home of the Eclectus parrots. She has researched Eclectus parrot prices carefully for you. Anna invites you to read more of her articles about parrots of the world at http://www.parrots-of-the-world.com. If you would like information on preparing for a baby Sun Conure parrot, you won�t want to miss Anna�s insights on the subject.
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